July 11, 2011
A lot of beauty books come across my desk but the new one by famed makeup artist Francois Nars (his makeup line is loved by Eva Mendes, Nicole Richie, Mary Kate and Ashley Olsen) is unique.
"Makeup Your Mind: Express Yourself" shows you how and where to apply your makeup and the exact products used. The book uses before and after photos to illustrate dozens of makeup looks at any age and Global Artistic Director James Boehmer shares how tips to achieve three looks based on stages of makeup wear: Play, Perfect and Polish.
TEENS & 20s
"PLAY" - This is a good time to experiment with makeup because virtually anything goes.
CELEB EXAMPLE: SELENA GOMEZ
HOW-TO: Work two to three pumps of a sheer coverage, oil-free matte foundation between palms and smooth over skin. Apply to the center of the face, blending outwards.
Dab a creamy concealer under eyes, across lids and on any uneven skin tone, spots or blemishes. Blend with a fingertip and a Flat Concealer Brush. Blot skin with a tissue to remove any excess foundation and concealer.
Using a puff, press translucent loose powder over skin to set foundation, then buff face with a clean Loose Powder Brush to remove any leftover loose powder.
Blend a golden moss-hued cream eyeshadow over the entire lid with the fingertip.
Line the top and bottom lash lines, including the inner membrane of the eye, with a black eyeliner and smudge with a Push Eyeliner Brush.
Using an Eye Shader Brush apply the right side of a shimmering emerald eyeshadow over the lid from lash line to the base of brow bone and to the outer corner. Blend with a Large Domed Eye Brush to diffuse color.
Use a Large Dome Brush to apply a platinum gold eyeshadow on the brow bone as a highlighter.
Line the top and bottom lids, including the inner membrane of the eye, with more black eyeliner.
Curl lashes with an Eyelash Curler before brushing them with Larger Than Life Lengthening Mascara.
Swirl a peachy pink blush on the apples of the cheeks with a Blush Brush.
Line and fill in lips with a matte pastel pink and top with a frosted pink lipstick for added shimmer.
PRODUCT LIST:
Face:
- Punjab Sheer Matte Foundation
- Vanilla Concealer
- Flesh Loose Powder
- Amour Blush
Eye:
- Cap Ferrat Trio Eyeshadow
- Black Moon Eyeliner Pencil
- Larger Than Life Lengthening Mascara
Lips:
- Roman Holiday Velvet Matte Lip Pencil
- Venice Lipstick
Brushes/Tools:
- Flat Concealer Brush
- Loose Powder Brush
- Push Eyeliner Brush
- Eye Shader Brush
- Large Domed Eye Brush
- Large Dome Brush
- Eyelash Curler
- Blush Brush
30s & 40s
"PERFECT" - This age is about perfecting the looks that are most flattering to you.
CELEB EXAMPLE: CAMERON DIAZ
HOW-TO: Work two to three pumps of a light-coverage, satin-finish foundation between palms and smooth over skin. Apply to the center of the face and blend outwards.
Dab a creamy concealer under eyes, across lids and on any uneven skin tone, spots or blemishes. Blend with a fingertip and a Flat Concealer Brush. Blot skin with a tissue to remove any excess foundation and concealer.
Using a puff, press a translucent loose powder into the skin to set foundation, then buff the face with a clean Botan Brush to remove any leftover loose powder.
Use a Wide Contour Brush to tap and sweep a shimmering white eyeshadow over the entire eyelid from lash line to brow.
Line lower lash line, including the inner membrane of the eye with a pink champagne eye pencil
Curl lashes with an Eyelash Curler and brush on Larger Than Life Volumizing Mascara.
Define brows with a matte taupe eyeshadow applied with a Brow Shader Brush.
Use a Yachiyo Brush to sweep a sheer golden apricot blush softly along the cheekbone.
Line and fill in lips with a classic red lip liner pencil (Make sure the pencil is freshly sharpened for a precise and clean line.) Top with a matte hot pink lipstick.
PRODUCT LIST:
Face:
- Punjab Sheer Glowe Foundation
- Vanilla Concealer
- Flesh Loose Powder
- Luster Blush
Eye:
- Pandora Duo Eyeshadow
- Goddess Soft Touch Shadow Pencil
- Larger Than Life Voluminzing Mascara
- Bali Single Eyeshadow
Lips:
- Jungle Red Lipliner Pencil
- Carthage, Pure Matte Lipstick
Brushes/Tools:
- Flat Concealer Brush
- Botan Brush
- Wide Contour Brush
- Eyelash Curler
- Brow Shader Brush
- Yachiyo Brush
50s & BEYOND
"POLISH" - At this age, makeup techniques need to be adjusted as the skin matures.
CELEB EXAMPLE: OPRAH
HOW-TO: Begin by applying an oil-free pore refining primer all over the face to prepare the skin for makeup application.
Work two to three pumps of a sheer-coverage satin-finish foundation between palms and smooth over skin.
Dab a mix of creamy concealers under eyes, across lids and on any uneven skin tone, spots or blemishes. Blend with a fingertip and a Flat Concealer Brush. Blot skin with a tissue to absorb any excess foundation and concealer. (Using a warmer, peach tone concealer will help to brighten darkness around the eye. Follow with a concealer that is a closer match to the actual skin tone to blend out.)
Swipe a puff dipped in a translucent loose powder over skin to set foundation, then dust face with a clean Loose Powder Brush to remove any leftover loose powder.
Prep the eye area with an eyeshadow base to intensify colors and provide a long-wearing finish. Apply a small amount to the eye area and gently blend with finger.
Line top and bottom lashes, including the inner membrane of the eye, and fill in lid up to the crease of the eye with a chocolate brown eyeliner pencil. Blend gently with a fingertip and an Eye Contour Brush to soften any hard edges, creating a sheer veil of color.
Brush a gold-infused boysenberry eyeshadow along lower lashes with an Angled Eye Shader brush and onto the lid, from the lashes to the base of brow bone, with a Wide Contour Brush. Use the same brush to blend a rose gold eyeshadow onto the inner corner and the brow bone as a highlight. Blend well so that color appears seamless. Use a Push Eyeliner Brush to line top and bottom lashes and inner membrane of the eye with a bright eggplant eyeshadow.
Curl lashes with an Eyelash Curler before brushing them top and bottom with Larger Than Life Volumizing Mascara.
Define brows with a deep taupe brown eyeshadow using a Brow Shader Brush.
Dip a Bronzing Brush into a golden terracotta bronzing powder, as well as a shimmering dark brown bronzing powder, and brush the mix onto the face in a '3' shape motion along the forehead, cheekbones and jaw line. Follow with a combination of a cotton candy pink blush and dusty rose blush, dusted onto the apples of the cheeks with a Yachiyo Brush.
Apply a shimmering amber coral to the lips followed by a shimmering honey beige lipstick (applying the gloss first gives the lipstick something to grip onto and also creates a soft shine finish).
PRODUCT LIST:
Face:
- Pore Refining Primer
- Syracuse Sheer Glow Foundation
- Praline Concealer
- Toffee Concealer
- Beach Loose Powder
- Irresistiblement Bronzing Powder
- Casino Bronzing Powder
- Desire Blush
- Dolce Vita Blush
Eye:
- Smudge Proof Eyeshadow Base
- Mambo Eyeliner Pencil
- Kuala Lumpur Duo Eyeshadow
- Lulu Single Eyeshadow
- Larger Than Life Volumizing Mascara
- Coconut Grove Single Eyeshadow
Lips:
- Sandpiper Lip Gloss
- Promiscuous Lipstick
Brushes/Tools:
- Flat Concealer Brush
- Loose Powder Brush
- Eye Contour Brush
- Angled Eye Shader Brush
- Wide Contour Brush
- Push Eyeliner Brush
- Eyelash Curler
- Brow Shader Brush
- Bronzing Brush
- Yachiyo Brush
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